Jivaka Ayurveda

Ayurvedic Studies in Vrindavan India
Part 2

1/6/06
Space Mountain Revisited

The last few days have been a gradual exploration to move beyond MVT guesthouse and starting to explore the surrounding area. Dr. Gupta has recommended that I take this slowly. I suspect that seeing too much poverty to close, or too many farm animals and their excrement or too much raw sewage in the gutter might be difficult for my American sensibilities.

Today I had no classes as Thursday is the day off so it was time to explore the town. A few nights ago, I met Prithu Das at the internet cafe. He is a older German Krishna devotee who has been in town off and on over the past 33 years and got into the ISKCON movement in the 60’s. He used to own property near the main ISKCON temple and George Harrison used to stay there. He has some stories that would make a great book.

Fields of clover and marigolds out side of town on the old Yamuna river bed

He offered to take me for a walk out of town. He had some health issues so I provided some basic ayurvedic advice as we walked. First we left town and went through fields of flowers that are grown for the pujas (temple ceremonies) and then through fields of clover, wheat, barley and mustard.

Rural living at its best

We passed the sweetest rural homes which Prithu Das described as the real "India". Most of India is not towns but agriculture areas with scattered dwelling mixed in. A cow in every yard, a plot of land to work and few needs makes for a very sattvic (pure) life.

Prithu Das at the Yamuna contemplating his sacred dip

We eventually ended up down at the sacred Yamuna River, where Prithu took a purifying bath in water that I would consider toxic. It is said that one who bathes in the Yamuna can be purified of all sinful reactions and attain love of Godhead. He suggested that I put a few drops on my head and that would have the same effect as a complete plunge. Being a white boy from Jersey I went for the sprinkle.

A view from a side branch of the Yamuna River looking back at Vrindavan and the red sandstone of Mandana Mohana Temple.

The Mandana Mohana Temple was established by Srila Sanatana Gosvami and was the first temple to be built in Vrindavan, which at that time was just a forest of tulsi (holy basil). The original Deity of Madana-mohana was taken to Karauli in Rajasthan for safety during the attack on Vrindavan by the soldiers of the fanatical Muslim Emperor, Aurangzeb. He killed cows, which are sacred to Hindus, inside the temple so that it could no longer be used for worship. The things that have been done in the name of religion. It makes me think that perhaps, it is best not to believe in any “one” religion but to respect them all.

Contrasts in a typical street scene:
Ancient temples, a man bathing, a child chasing ox with stick, car horn beeping behind me and women dress impeccably in flowing saris.

We then walked along the Yamuna into town. The old waterfront is lined with temples from the 16th century that used to be ghats (steps for bathing and praying) right on the water front. In the picture above, the street used to be the 5 feet under water and the pagodas jutted out into the water like a docks. They were in great decay but with Prithu Das's explanations of the place I could visualize the ancient shore line.

Kesi Ghat at sunset

Kesi Ghat is the only ghat which is still on the Yamuna. It is the place where Lord Krishna, after killing the Kesi demon who appeared in the form of a gigantic horse, took his bath. In memory of this incident, an arati (worship with lamps) is held for the river goddess Yamuna Devi every evening. As the sun was setting we ran across the arati: a 20 people of all ages who were chanting and doing puja (evening prayers). This involved lighting small homemade candles which individually were placed in a leaf boat and let afloat down stream. After 50 or so were set afloat, the sight was really out of a movie.

It is very hard to describe and I didn't have my camera. Candles floating on the water. A pontoon bridge in the background had ox carts carrying bales of clover for the cows on it. Sun set reflecting off the river. Ancient red castle surrounds us as the smell of lots of incense fills the air. The women in saris looking like they just stepped out of a salon in Beverly Hills. There is farm excrement everywhere on the streets and the men look like they all have been doing hard labor in their clothes but some how the women look perfect. I don’t see how they ever negotiate the bed room.

Loi Bazaar, the main shopping area

After soaking in the scene we went shopping in the bazaar in the main part of the town. Prithu Das was a great guide warning me of possible dangers. For example, the horns on the cows had been known to slice you right open. He had a scar to prove the story. Or the monkeys that steal the glasses right from a tourist's head and then expects a banana to get them back.

Prithu Das discusses a stainless steel purchase

We stopped at a couple of Ayurvedic medicine shops, a shawl and blanket store and a stainless steel store (plates, cups, containers). Shopping is "rickshaw accessible" as show in the above photo. I am taking the photo while still in the rickshaw. If you want to go in the shop, one removes ones shoes and walks into the space which is covered with a huge 1.5 inch thick futon covered with a white sheet. It seduces on into lounging while contemplating one's purchases.

To get back to MVT guest house we hired a bicycle rickshaw for 15 rupees, about 50 cents for a 10 minute ride of hard labor. Now mind you the roads are crazy. Like way crazy! Imaging all the following cows, pigs, camels and oxen pulling slow carts, testosterone driven 20 year olds on motorcycles, cars beeping horns to get everyone aside, bicycle and motor rickshaws. Now throw in all the excrement from the animals and about 50 extras, who are dressed in rags by American standards that are walking on the side of the road. You are about half way there.

A ride to remember

The ride starts and Prithu Das launches into a philosophical comparison of Christ consciousness and Krishna consciousness. He seems totally uneffected by the “near misses” that I am perceiving as we weave through the mass of humanity at what seems to me a great speed for the prevailing conditions.

About half way home all the lights in the city go out. Prithu continues unaffected. I have to ask. He explains that India doesn’t have enough electricity for all the towns to be "on" at once so a “power strike” takes place where some towns are intentionally shut off so that some other town can have power. MVT has a generator so my power has been uninterrupted and I never was aware of this.

So now it’s very dark, and the only lights come from the few cars that speed by. Whow... look out for that PIG! And don't mind that bump that feels like we ran over someone's arm. Was that the odor of burning hair or my imagination? If you can remember Space Mountain™ at Disneyland (the roller coaster in the dark), you are getting close. The ride ended not a second too soon and we arrived safely at MVT. I'll think twice before going out after dark.

Just another day in Vrindavan.

Continued to Part 3... The Fire Ceremony

Review: Part 1